In 1996, after 173 years as a sake brewer, the Kiuchi Brewery began to produce beer as well. Prior to 1994 Japanese regulations had actually made this expansion difficult, if not impossible, so Hitachino Nest Beer was in the forefront of a microbrew revolution. Many of the revolutionaries have already stumbled, however, largely due to beers that were too timid to make an impression on the drinker. In a short time they have already made a name for themselves by releasing creative brews that tip their hats to a number of international influences, radically different from the lager-styles of Japan’s “Big Four:” Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, and Suntory. Their Sweet Lacto-Stout harkens back to an older style. Beers made with the addition of milk sugars first came to light at the turn of the last century in England and continued in popularity until World War II, when their numbers began to dwindle in the face of competition from mass-produced styles. The lactose used in the beer was traditionally a by-product of cheese production, and the wisdom of the day held that this style of beer suited pregnant women because of its lower alcohol and sweeter flavor. I found Hitachino’s rendition to be rich but not overly sweet, with a creamy texture and malty flavors plus elements of walnut and black tea. I also found an earthy quality and a note of nori, but the latter might be an attempt on my part to see the beer as particularly Japanese The Kiuchi Brewery also continues to move forward with new things; they have planted a variety of grapes in anticipation of adding winemaking to their portfolio, alongside beer and sake. There’s every reason to expect some well-thought out, sincerely crafted wines, and I look forward to seeing their adorable owl label in my local wine shop.

Hitachino Espresso Stout 330ml 1206B Price: $5.59

Hitachino Nestbier Red Rice Ale 330ML Price: $5.89