Domaine Dugat Py (Bernard)"In the top echelon of the world's finest Pinot Noir producers along with The Domaine Leroy, Bernard Dugat makes the most vin de garde Pinot Noir in the world. It is truly a mistake to drink his Villages wines, on up through the Crus, before they have been in bottle five years after the vintage (the Bourgogne, maybe three). He and his charming wife, Jocelyne Py, thus Domaine Dugat-Py, work extremely hard in the vines (theirs are some of the most beautifully tended in all of Burgundy), cutting them back in order to lower yields and extract more from the soil. Bernard’s wines are so intense because they are so concentrated from the juice that goes into the wine. That Bernard is a genius in vinifying Pinot Noir doesn’t hurt either. The Dugats live on the tiny Rue Planteligone, at the top of the village of Gevrey, not far from the church**. Just outside their back door are 50 year old vines that make the heart of the cuvee Coeur du Roi (if you will pardon the pun). Another third of this cuvee is from 90+ year old vines in a parcel called Combe Dessous, lying just below the Premier Cru Combes aux Moines. In 1997 and 1998 there was so little Premier Cru Petite Chapelle that Bernard could not make a barrel, so it too went into 1er Cru (as did the Clos Fonteny). It’s a big wine. So is the Lavaux St. Jacques, but it exists in such miniscule quantities as to be almost cruel. The Charmes vines are well situated across the path from Chambertin, and the charming quality of Charmes balances the super-masculine quality present in all of Bernard’s wines. A beauty. The vines in the Mazi parcel, are over 55 years of age. Mazi makes one of the most full-bodied of all the Grand Crus, and this has that quality, but also a marvelous character of ripe wild blueberries, spice, and forest-floor scents that makes it inimitable. Bernard has recently added a tiny parcel of Chambertin to complete his repertoire.