The 1998 Valbuena is better than the 1987 Unico, and probably as good as the 1989 Unico, at least over the next decade. Extremely full-bodied, it offers up notes of smoke, graphite, toasty oak, caramel, black cherry liqueur, and cassis. Opulent and sumptuous, it is both a hedonistic and intellectual turn-on. Anticipated maturity: now - 2016. 94 points - Robert Parker
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