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Pichon Lalande’s new owner, the Roederer champagne firm, appears to have produced one of the finest Pichon Lalandes made in recent years. Administrator Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, assisted in 2006 by consultant Hubert de Bouard, declared only 41% of the production as the grand vin, resulting in a wine that should rival both the 2003 and 2000. The final blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot was cropped at 41 hectoliters per hectare. This gorgeous wine represents an updated version of the 1996. It boasts a dense purple color as well as a beautiful nose of espresso roast, chocolate, creme de cassis, cedar, and spice. Full-bodied and powerful with high tannin, an attractive mouthfeel, and a multilayered texture, it will be a backward-styled Pichon Lalande, but it is significantly better than the 2005, recalling some of the finest vintages produced over the last 20-35 years. -Robert Parker